First before you read any further, let us get one thing clear: Old Salem Museum and Gardens is not a miniaturized version of Colonial Williamsburg.
The latter is an oft- venerated version museum offering insight into America’s colonial past. Listen to the residents of this Moravian town, begun in 1766, and one phrase is repeated proudly again and again.
“Williamsburg had to rebuild, all we had to do was restore.”
The difference is felt immediately when your feet hit the uneven brick sidewalk. Here the historic area merges seamlessly with modern life. Watch as a high powered SUV attempts to parallel park in front of a house with a 19th century clad interpreter standing in the doorway. Instead of being highly unusual the transposition is comforting.
Old Salem marches to a cadence rooted in the past, celebrating the present and anticipating the future. You are invited to join in.
While anyone can roam the streets for free, a ticket is required for entrance into any of the four distinctly different museums found in less than a two- mile radius and some of the buildings in the historic area.
Who were the Moravians? Persecuted Protestants from what is now the Czech Republic who first settled in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania before pioneering their way south to North Carolina and settling a 98,00 tract of land called “Wachovia”. Salem became just one of a few settlements.
Among its highly respected facilities is MESDA (The Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts). From 24 decorated rooms and a series of galleries regional artisans from the late 17th to early 19th century of Chesapeake, Low Country and the Backcountry of seven states are celebrated. Like the elegance of a low country Charleston home or the rougher yet still refined furnishings of a mountain Kentucky or Tennessee cabins.
In the same building you will also find the Children’s Museum where colonial life is highlighted for children through fun activities. And for those with the inner child alive and well – perhaps a tour of the Toy Museum is just the ticket to a nostalgic journey of playtimes past.
Back on the streets of the historic area it is an easy and enjoyable soujorn to the past.
Among treasured stopping points are St Phillips, the state’s oldest African American church building, the Single Brothers and Single Sisters Halls, the various trade shops like the shoemaker’s where you will learn, from a working demonstrator, the cost of a single pair of shoes could be up to a week’s salary.
John Volger’s home demonstrates how a skilled silversmith, over the years, began to appreciate the speed and skill under the Industrial Revolution. Brother Volger sold less of his own creations and more of manufactured works from Philadelphia. One of his handcrafted objects though is filled with romance. A ring for his wife features two clasped hands with the inscription “with God and thee, my joy shall be.”
The all time favorite stop while in the Historic Area is Winkler’s Bakery. A beehive oven continually offers fresh breads, cakes or of course the famed ginger infused Moravian cookies in a series of varieties.
For more Moravian fare – get yourself to the Old Salem Tavern and if weather permits sit on the back porch or under the grape arbors. Here time slows to a leisurely pace, the costumed wait staff is friendly and the food sublime. Hint: try the warm gingerbread with lemon ice cream. Your mouth will thank you. Also do not be shy - visit with your fellow diners and you might just discover locals with some interesting insights on Old Salem.
The history continues.
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